Travel log - another European trip


22-23 December 2019

We had time to pack for this trip because Sam wasn’t working and I finished up on the Friday before Christmas week. Sam still managed to leave everything till the last minute!

At about 10:30 am, the Qantas chauffeur came to pick us up. He was a very social chap and pretty much chattered away all through our trip to the airport.

Checking in was easy – holding business class tickets, we were pretty much treated like royalty. We met up with Jake and Ryan in the business lounge. I had trouble connecting my laptop to Wifi, so the universe was telling me to stop working, even though I planned to finish a few pieces of work on our way to London.

The Brisbane to Perth trip was unremarkable, other than the fact that as I was settling myself into my seat on the plane, one of my colleagues with his family moving through the aisle to get their seats said hello. I felt rather awkward sitting in business class while he and his family (with 2 children) were moving up to economy class. His wife actually said to me, “You guys are sitting in the right seats". There is nothing more class conscious an environment as air travel.

When we got to Perth about 5 hours later, immigration was not ready to check us in, so we had to settle ourselves in the domestic business lounge. After some refreshments and drinks later (I stuck to this regime of only drinking and eating very little non-fibrous foods to minimise my need to go to the toilet on the plane), we went through immigration, as well as TRS to get the GST back on my recent Apple purchases.

Then we found ourselves in the international business lounge, which was very nice. There was hardly anyone in the lounge because most if not all of the people there were business class travellers doing the non-stop 17-hour flight from Perth to London. The food and drinks in the lounge were amazing but I couldn’t really take advantage of a lot of it because of the regime to which I was sticking for the plane trip.

It felt like we were in the lounge for a short while before we were told we could board the London flight. The business class seats were great, like the ones we were in when we went to Hong Kong about 4 years ago. It was a long 17 hours but it didn’t feel much longer than the normal flight from Singapore/Hong Kong to London. I tried to re-calibrate my body clock to London time, so I worked as long as I could after a self-imposed small meal. I also worked on the plane to distract myself from my flight anxiety. I also started watching the Harry Potter movies starting from the first one.

The Dreamliner was a beautiful plane. It was very quiet and taking off was effortless. After working till about 2 am local time in Brisbane, I got tired and went to sleep. There was nothing better being to lie flat on a plane on a long-haul flight. That alone is worth the costs as far as I am concerned. My sleep was not deep but adequate although I did wake up when we hit some turbulence and the pilot had to turn on the put-your-seatbelt-on sign (which naturally caused me some anxiety).

When I got up about 5 hours later, I resumed watching the Harry Potter movies. After another 2 movies later, I decided that I needed a break, so I swapped over to The Big Bang Theory, which was great. At some point, I felt tired again and went back to sleep, so that gave me another 2 hours of snooze.

It was an extremely smooth landing on the Dreamliner. I was expecting the usual bang when we hit the tarmac but there was not much of that. This plane was amazing. As usual, while we arrived at London early, we were stuck on the plane for a while because they couldn’t connect the walkway to our plane for a while.

It was effortless to go through immigration and the immigration officer we had was very friendly. We then went to the Qantas chauffeur area to let them know that we would like to use the arrivals lounge, which was run by American Airlines. While the main lounge area was fairly basic, the individual bathrooms were very clean and modern. It was great being able to freshen up somewhat because we didn’t expect that our hotel rooms would be ready by the time we got into London at about 6 am in the morning.

To our surprise, our rooms were ready at Bloomsbury when we arrived, although the room was much smaller than my recollection of the room we had some 6 years ago. They re-modelled the hotel to maximise the bar called The Coral Room, which took away a lot of the niceties and character that came with the hotel previously. I think I would think twice if I have to book a hotel in London again in the future despite how central the Bloomsbury is located.

We settled in our hotel rooms and re-convened about 15 minutes later. Jake and Ryan had never been to London, so I took them down Oxford Street (and took a detour through Soho to Carnaby Street), stopping for a coffee break at a café in Soho. We then walked back to the hotel, rested for a while, and went out again for lunch at VQ. I just couldn’t help myself and ordered an espresso martini with lunch. When we were done, we went to the British Museum, which was full of people. We didn’t stay there that long because it was so crowded and went to Leicester Square for the Christmas markets. They were not as big as the ones in New York but they really revived my Christmas spirit.

After Leicester Square, we walked down to the National Gallery and lo and behold, they had Christmas markets down there as well. I was in heaven. I got myself some gluwein while the guys waited for me to drink it, before we went into the gallery and looked at a few pieces of art done by selected artists the boys liked. Again, there were heaps of people there, so we didn’t stay that long. It was quite adequate for the boys anyway because they got to walk around Travalgar Square and enjoyed the atmosphere there.

We headed back to the hotel, rested for a while, before we met up with my friend, Donald, for dinner. We went to Prix Fixe again – Andy, Dale, and we all loved it when we visited London the last two times. Before we left for the restaurant though, we had cocktails at the hotel bar. I had this amazing cognac cocktail but just as well because it cost about $30 in Aussie dollars!

Dinner with Donald was great because the food was yummy but we were all a bit jetlagged, so our conversations were a bit lacklustre. That gave Donald a chance to tell us a bit about his life in London. The poor guy had had a rough run in the last 6 months. When we finished dinner, Donald wanted to take us to Said where we had coffee and hot chocolate four years ago. Unfortunately, the café was jammed full of people and everyone wanted to get back to the hotel to sleep anyway, so we said goodbye to Donald and headed back.

That was a crazy 36 hours of travelling and settling down in London. Even though we were only in London for about 16 hours, it felt like we had been here for days.

24 December 2019

I woke up at about 6:30 am when Sam got up and went to the bathroom. When he came back to bed, I decided to sleep some more. About another 2 hours later, we decided to get up.

We met up with the boys downstairs and headed to Selfridges because Sam wanted to get some chocolate there, seeing what they had on offer the day before. Before the crazy chocolate shopping frenzy, we had coffee at the Selfridges café. The coffee there wasn’t cheap – about AUD$7 but it was very pleasant and civilised.

Sam was in chocolate heaven and I totally understood why – Selfridges had the most comprehensive chocolate range I had ever seen. I couldn’t resist and got myself some as well, only to devour them within the next 20 minutes!

We went back to the hotel for a short period to drop off the chocolate before we headed to Camden Market together. It was as crowded as we remembered it. After briefly walking through some of the stalls, we started looking for a place to eat.

The boys spotted a restaurant/pub looking establishment across the river. We went over and had a look – even a passer-by told us that the restaurant/pub had the cheapest food ever. And he was right. The food was simple but yummy and the drinks were great. It was much better having lunch there than buying street food at the market
and fighting the crowd for precious eating space.

When we were done, we went to Nero for some coffee. While we were relaxing, the boys found a Whole Foods within 100 metres, so we went there. I found the parmesan crisps I bought at the Whole Foods in the USA. We then headed back to the hotel to recharge before the evening’s activities.

In the evening, we went to the Hyde Park Winter Wonderland for the Christmas market there, except that it was more like the Ekka than a Christmas market. Most of the market was taken up by rides. The boys, being big theme parks fans, couldn’t resist the temptation of riding the roller coaster while Sam and I shared a German chicken bratwurst together. I also got myself an apple mulled wine, which tasted more like heated up apple juice than an alcoholic beverage.

When the boys were done with their roaster coaster ride, we hopped back onto the Tube and went to this bar Ryan found online for cocktails and dinner. However, because we didn’t book a table, we couldn’t get in, so we went to Covent Garden for a bit of a look around. We couldn’t find any bar/restaurant there and everything was closing fast, so we went back to the hotel bar to have some cocktails and Sam and I filled ourselves up with truffle and parmesan fries.

We are now back to our hotel room and spending the rest of Christmas Eve watching some Christmas special program on TV.

Tomorrow is going to be interesting because most public transport will be closed, so are eateries, although we have already booked Christmas dinner here at the hotel restaurant. Let’s see how what we are going to fare tomorrow when everything will go offline.

25 December 2019

I woke up on Christmas day at about 6 am. Damn my Australian body clock.

We met up with the boys at about 9:30 am and went to Chinatown together. We figured that if anything would be open on Christmas day, it would be Asian establishments on account of the fact that they may not celebrate Christmas. On the way there, we found a Middle Eastern establishment where we got some scalding hot coffee, which came in handy because it was a cooler day since we got here.

None of the eateries were opened yet, so we decided to head over to St Paul’s Cathedral mainly for the boys’ benefit. The cathedral was packed with people, unlike other locations around the city. We queued up and went into the cathedral for a while for a bit of sightseeing before we came back out.

We then walked all the way back to Chinatown and had an early lunch at this Chinese restaurant. Like all Chinese restaurants, they really jacked up their prices for the day. For instance, the boys ordered some dumplings that would normally cost about 8 pounds – they were charged 24 pounds for exactly the same item just because it was Christmas. Most other restaurants were blatantly charging double for the day.

While the food wasn’t amazing, it was sufficient to make me feel warm and full again, so much so that we headed to the Buckingham Palace where the boys took photos. They wanted to head down to the Big Ben but because it was overly sunny, Sam and I decided to head back to the hotel.

After lazing around for a while, we went downstairs to have espresso martinis and were joined by the boys later on. We played Uno over a few rounds of cocktail, literally sitting there until the sun set at about 4 pm.

In the evening, we went down to the hotel restaurant, Dalloway Terrace, where we booked our Christmas dinner. The menu was amazing, so was the actual food. I had a lobster bisque as a starter, followed by turkey as my main (I couldn’t not have turkey for Christmas!). I even broke my paleo diet, which was an extremely rare occasion, to have the Christmas pudding for dessert, together with a steaming cup of overly sweet gluwein.

By the time we were done, everyone looked like all they wanted to do was to go to bed. Sam and I tried to walk around the block but we were not dressed for it, so we came back to the hotel room not long after.

I love Christmas in cold weather. I wish we could shift Christmas to July in Australia.

26 December 2019

We went to Brighton today, which was great, because Sam and I had never been there before in our previous trips. However, it had been raining and was a bit wet and that got worse when we reached Brighton.

It would have been fine if it wasn’t blowing a gale but the wind chill factor really amplified the cold. We found some respite ducking into a shopping centre when we first got there but Jacob was intent on getting us to a restaurant a few blocks away. However, on our way there, the wind and rain were so bad that our umbrellas kept overturning. The wind even broke Ryan’s umbrella and the new one he bought from the shops (to be fair, he paid 5 pounds for it).

Given that we were cold and wet, we ducked into the first pub we could find and had lunch there. The food was okay but my espresso martini in the can – not so much. When we were done, we tried to find The Lane, which was meant to be some LGBTIQ landmark. Unfortunately, most of the shops were closed because it was Boxing Day and given that the wind was still wreaking havoc, we decided to go back to London. So much for spending an hour each way to and from Brighton!

Instead of heading back to the hotel, we decided to go to Whole Foods at Kensington. I wish we have a Whole Foods in Brisbane – I wouldn’t ever need to cook again if there is one near us! We spent some time grabbing a few things we wanted and headed back to the hotel. At least our day out was not a total waste.

In the evening, we went to a nice Indian restaurant for dinner. The food was only okay despite how upmarket the restaurant appeared. My curried prawns were way over-cooked and my watermelon martini was not that nice. When we were done, we walked back to the hotel and went through some backstreets with pretty Christmas lights everywhere. It was magical.

27 December 2019

We met up with the boys at 9:30 am again and headed out to Oxford University.

The train that took us there was frightfully crowded. It was partly out fault because when the gate for our train was opened, we didn’t realise it was for our train until after a stampede of people had already fully occupied the whole train. The trains here are crazy – people just rush onto them in a huge stampede to secure seats. We were not used to crowds like that at home, so we found ourselves not aggressive enough to compete for seats.

It took us an hour to get to Oxford and we had to stand for most of that trip. We did get seats in the last 10 minutes after a lot of people got off at this shopping centre for post-Christmas sales.

It was lovely to walk through the town square in Oxford. It was very cold the last time we were there, so we didn’t see much of the town. Today’s weather was much milder, so that gave us the chance to walk around a bit more. We settled for a pub for lunch and then looked at some of the ancient architecture on the campus. It was crazy to realise that some of the buildings pre-dated the discovery of Australia by some 500 years!

We left Oxford at about 3:20 pm. After a quick visit to Planet Organic, we rested for about half an hour in the hotel and met up with the boys again to go to West End. We grabbed a quite bite at Wagamama before we went to see Hamilton.

I enjoyed the musical but probably not as much as an American would because one had to know early American history well to know the historical backdrop behind the story. I was surprised to see the British audience loving it so much even though the musical mocked the English king at the time. I could also see the production value behind all the music and dancing, albeit I wasn’t really into hip hop, R&B, or rapping. Would I recommend it to someone else? Probably but I would warn them of that unless they are American, they probably wouldn’t realise the full value of the production.

28 December 2019

We started the day heading over to the Marriott Hotel because we needed to pick up our NYE dinner tickets beforehand. The hotel was grand and beautiful. If only it was closer to Oxford Street and all the landmarks nearby.

After we picked up the tickets, we decided to go onto the London Eye. There were heaps of people there, so we opted to pay an extra 10 pounds per person for the fast track tickets. It was worth the money because we pretty much jumped the long queue and got ushered onto a carriage without much of a wait.

The ride was great – and a bit unnerving when it stopped near the top and the whole thing wobbled a bit in the wind (it was also unnerving when we hopped off and saw the security staff checking for bombs under the bench with a mirrored stick). We were also confronted with some rude Eastern European tourists, who seemed to be the new wave of obnoxious tourists. Years ago, it was the Americans (some of them probably still are); then came the Chinese; now, we have the Eastern Europeans.

After we were done with the London Eye and enjoyed the beautiful view so high up there, we went back to Waterloo Station and had brunch there. The food was okay but not amazing. When we were nice and full, we headed back to the other side of the river to get ready for Harry Potter and the Cursed Child.

We had heaps of time left, so we went to pick up some chocolate first and checked out the Harry Potter section of Primark before we headed down Charing Cross Road to the Palace Theatre.

The queue was pretty long to get into the theatre but it took no time at all once the doors were opened. We had perfects seats for the show. We were literally sitting in the middle of the first row of the dress circle and had full view of the stage. When we saw the show last in Melbourne, we were about 3 rows from the stage and couldn’t see absolutely everything, not to mention that I was battling a migraine at the time.

 
The only complaint I had was that British theatres seemed to have no air conditioning (as confirmed by a British theatre-goer who was sitting next to us). I found myself burning up as the show progressed, which was unpleasant.

When Part 1 was finished, we were in great spirits and walked down the Seven Dials. We found another chocolate shop and bought more chocolate from there (they had these Christmas pudding and plum flavoured chocolate, which were very delicious). We then dropped a few things off at the hotel and headed back down to Soho for dinner. It was a bit of a wild goose chase trying and get into a restaurant on a Saturday night without a booking in such a crazily crowded city but we were lucky – we were squeezed into a free spot in a Japanese restaurant but we had to promise to leave within an hour to free up the table for a reservation. The food turned out to be very nice there.

I was getting quite sleepy by the time we went back for Part 2. In fact, as soon as we sat down, due to the warmth inside the theatre, I started nodding off! Sam thought it was funny to see me like that and I am pretty sure he took a few photos of me.

Part 2 of the show did not disappoint. I had a full-on migraine when I was watching it last time. In comparison, keeping myself from falling asleep while watching it was much more pleasant.

It was a full day but it was also very satisfying. Now I can’t wait for the movie adaptation of the play to come out.

29 December 2019

We started the day early today to get on a road trip for the Bombay Sapphire Gin Distillery tour. The tour was fantastic. We learned about the history of the site, the botanicals that went into making the gin, and the process of making the gin. Judging from the scents we enjoyed from different ingredients, the tour included a free cocktail that matched closely with what we found most enjoyable.

After our free cocktail, we got ourselves seconds as Ryan was the designated driver, so I didn’t have to worry about driving at all. God bless Ryan, he and Jake picked up the car first thing in the morning and picked us up in front of the hotel. We even stopped by a quaint little street in one of the suburbs to pick up our morning coffee.

We were all very happy after our cocktails. In fact, I was starting to get tipsy and was in my happy place. We drove down the road to a rustic-looking pub and ordered our Sunday roast lunches there. To all of our surprises, it was single-handedly the best roast meal I could ever recall. The meat was amazingly cooked and the duck fat roasted potatoes and gravy were out of this world.

After the beautiful lunch, we headed to the Stonehenge. Poor Ryan took a wrong turn and Jake lost it momentarily. In any event, there was congestion on the road and given that we had tickets to see Come From Away at 7:30 pm that evening, we decided to skip the Stonehenge. We did drive the car on this uneven dirt road so the boys could get as close to the rocks as possible to take a photo or two.

Even though we were making good time to get back to central London, there was congestion everywhere, so instead of going back to the hotel to drop off our bags, we had to return the car to the car rental place, hopped onto the Tube, and headed straight to the theatre. We got there with about 20 minutes to spare.

Come From Away was very enjoyable. It was both poignant and funny at the same time, which was hard to achieve considering the subject matter. There were moments in the musical that made me want to cry with sadness while at other times with joy. The show was peppered with comic-relief humour yet there were soul-searching moments of sadness caused by the lives lost and destroyed. There were also heart-warming moments of humans coming together in the face of adversity and doing something amazing for each other.

When we came out, we couldn’t help reflecting on the fact that this musical was a fifth of the cost of Hamilton but we probably enjoyed this one more!

30 December 2019

Given the big day we had planned for NYE day, we decided to take it easy today.

We didn’t set any specific time to meet. Sam and I slept in till about 8 am and we left the hotel at about 10 am. We were looking for somewhere to have brunch but the boys messaged and asked to see if we wanted to go to the London Tower Bridge, so we ended up meeting with them back at the hotel and went to the Tower Bridge together.

It was a very sunny day (what was wrong with you, London!?), which was rather annoying for me. We went to Café Rouge for brunch, only that this one appeared to be run by an obnoxiously loud and tiny Italian and the food was crap. Seriously, who would serve a fruit salad on toast?!?

When we finished lunch, we went over to the London Tower. It was still very sunny and the queue was huge, so Sam and I excused ourselves and went to Pret a Manger for some mango instead. Just as well we did that because the boys texted about 10 minutes later to say that the waiting time was 45 minutes to get into the tower, so they were leaving for Greenwich instead.

Sam and I bumbled around, looking for a Tube station. We then bumbled around some more, trying to find the right train line to board. We somehow found ourselves back to Tottenham Court Road station and went back to Seven Dials to enjoy the atmosphere there. Sam wanted to go to Carnaby Street to get some chocolate, so we went there before we returned to Tottenham Court Road for me to get a haircut at a salon I went to the last two times we were in London.

After the haircut, I wanted to wash my hair, so we came back to the hotel. Meanwhile, the boys were getting back to the hotel from Greenwich as well, so the four of us went to a laundromat nearby to get our laundry done. To kill time, we went to a homely pub nearby for drinks. Given that I was drinking on an empty stomach, I started to get quite tipsy.

When our clothes were done, we went back to the hotel bar, ordered some more cocktails and two complimentary platters for ‘dinner’. I was so sleepy after all the drinks but was still a bit hungry after we finished our platters, so we went back upstairs, grabbed our jackets, went around the corner to the McDonalds, and bought 20 chicken nuggets for Sam and me!

We ate all the nuggets back in our hotel room and are now getting ready for bed. It’s going to be a huge day and night tomorrow.

31 December 2019

We had to wake up early this morning to go to the Warner Bros Harry Potter Studio tour. After two trains and a shuttle bus later, we were there bright and early.

Since we were at the studio about 4 years ago, there were new sections added, including the Forbidden Forest, Gringotts, and the dragon escape scene from Gringotts. They also added a new food hall, which was amazing. Half-way through the studio, we had lunch at the eatery section. My nicoise salad and tomato soup were great but the boys didn’t like their lunch much. Sam also bought the butterbeer to try. I tried a mouthful and thought it wasn’t too bad – it tasted like creaming soda and soft serve but it was way too sweet.

All in all, the place was simply magical. I felt so happy being there.

As my birthday prezzies, Sam wanted me to pick three things from the gift shop. I got Harry’s wand (I bought Draco’s last time) and a Ravenclaw lambswool cardigan. I couldn’t find another thing I wanted, so Sam got me the tour guidebook as well.

We got back to the hotel at around 3 pm to get ready for our NYE dinner.

As it turned out, the NYE dinner at Marriot was woeful. Seriously, anything that could go wrong went wrong. When we first got there, everything looked promising. There were heaps of wait staff and they were treating us like royalty. However, it didn’t take too long before the cracks started to show – most of them clearly had no idea what they were doing. It became very apparent that most of them were foreigners who were obviously the only people who were willing to work for the night.

The misstep started when the four of us decided to order some cocktails. We ordered three espresso martinis and a chocolate martini. Pretty run-of-the-mill drinks for every day of the week, one would have thought. First, they told us that they couldn’t make the drinks. After a bit of perplexing hesitation, they finally decided that they would get another bar to make the drinks, so we could order them anyway. When the drinks finally came, they looked like they were made by teenagers who just learned how to mix drinks. They looked and tasted badly. To add insult to injury, the four dreadful drinks cost us 64 pounds! Worse still, we ended up with at least 16 glasses on the table for a long while because the wait staff didn’t seem to realise that they needed to clear some of the dirty glasses after we finished our drinks or there wouldn't be any space left for the food!

After a long wait, the first course came out, which was a duck terrine, except that it was far too salty and it came with three pieces of what looked like cut-up toast sticks plonked on top. The whole presentation of the dish was amateurish and clumsy like a high-school assignment done by kids who had no idea what they were doing. Be that as it may, the dish was edible, so I was quietly hoping that the next course would fare better.

The next course was meant to be this beautiful beef medallion with a lobster pie, some potatoes, and greens. The beef was overcooked, dried, and not juicy at all. It was literally flavourless as if someone had just boiled the crap out of it. To make things worse, it didn’t come with any gravy or jus. The what-appeared-to-be bearnaise sauce was bland and lacklustre. The potato and vegetables tasted exactly the same – flavourless. The lobster pie was mostly pastry with a sorry little piece of prawn-like meat in the middle of it. It was as if the chef was allergic to seasoning and had never tasted salt. I ate about half of the plate out of sheer hunger and left the rest.

By that time, I didn’t hold high hopes for the dessert. It was some chocolate mousse dome concoction that tasted like one thing and one thing only – sweet, sweet, and sweet. It was like shoving mouthfuls of creamed sugar into my mouth. I dug underneath the surface of the dome and found some red jelly, which was just as sweet as the shell. I ate a bit of the jelly and left the rest of the dessert behind in fear of getting a sugar coma.

On the menu, the fourth course was a selection of cheese. No one told us that they were actually waiting for us on a platter in the hallway. Just as well Ryan went to the washroom, noticed them, and brought some back for us. Given that I hadn’t had much to eat by then, I went and got some more cheese for myself. The blue cheese lacked oomph and was bland like everything else we had tasted. I wondered if the chef also made the blue cheese on-site. The brie was much better, so I tried to fill up on it.

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention – according to the menu, every course was paired with a different wine but none of the wait staff seemed to know they were meant to pour us the correct glass of paired-wine first before each course was served. Instead, the wine got poured haphazardly throughout the evening without regard to any of the paired-courses. At one stage, I had to empty the white wine in my glass and poured myself a glass of red to go with the beef. We also noticed that the champagne that was meant to be paired with the dessert wasn’t the champagne they actually served. At which time, most of us had already finished our dessert anyway!

All in all, none of the courses was enjoyable. In fact, they were on the verge of not being edible. Our whole experience was horrific, which most certainly was not commensurate with the 250 pounds we each paid per person. We most certainly didn’t blame the staff there – they seemed to be trying their best to please their guests but they seemed to be an impromptu gang of people management just threw together regardless of their experience and hoped for the best. As Jake said, they were all very nice people but were totally useless.

Not long after dinner, we made a quick exit and went out to the Westminster Bridge to get ready for the NYE fireworks. I was quite nervous because of the huge crowd and a fear, rational or otherwise, that the bridge may not hold up all the weight of the people and collapse.

The fireworks were spectacular though, so they did take my mind momentarily off my anxiety. When they were finished, we quickly got off the bridge and headed to Waterloo Station, only to find that the entrance to the station was closed, so we followed the crowd and presumably headed for the next entrance. Meanwhile, Sam was busting and really needed to go to the toilet. It was getting critical (he told us later on that for the first time, he thought he would really wet his pants) when we found a pub that was still opened by chance, so he quickly ducked into it and found a toilet.

After about two and a half kilometres of walking, we found ourselves back at the hotel. To celebrate, we went to the hotel bar and ordered some cocktails to complete our NYE celebrations.

PS I left the following review on Trip Advisor:
 
NYE Dinner - Be Warned - It was a Horrific Experience for Us!

As it turned out, the NYE dinner at Marriot was woeful. Seriously, anything that could go wrong went wrong. When we first got there, everything looked promising. There were heaps of wait staff and they were treating us like royalty. However, it didn’t take too long before the cracks started to show – most of them clearly had no idea what they were doing. It became very apparent that most of them were non-English speakers who were obviously the only people who were willing to work for the night.

The misstep started when the four of us decided to order some cocktails. We ordered three espresso martinis and a chocolate martini. Pretty run-of-the-mill drinks for everyday of the week, one would have thought. First, they told us that they couldn’t make the drinks. After a bit of perplexing hesitation, they finally decided that they would get another bar to make the drinks, so we could order them anyway. When the drinks finally came, they looked like they were made by teenagers who just learned how to mix drinks. They looked and tasted badly. To add insult to injury, the four dreadful drinks cost us 64 pounds! Worse still, we ended up with at least 16 glasses on the table for a long while because the wait staff didn’t seem to realise that they needed to clear some of the dirty glasses after we finished our drinks.

After a long wait, the first course came out, which was a duck terrine, except that it was far too salty and it came with three pieces of what looked like cut-up toast sticks. The whole presentation of the dish was amateurish and clumsy like a high-school assignment done by kids who had no idea what they were doing. Be that as it may, the dish was edible, so I was quietly hoping that the next course would fare better.

The next course was meant to be this beautiful beef medallion with a lobster pie, some potatoes, and greens. The beef was overcooked, dried, and not juicy at all. It was literally flavourless as if someone had just boiled the crap out of it. To make things worse, it didn’t come with any gravy or jus. The what-appeared-to-be bearnaise sauce was bland and lacklustre. The potato and vegetables tasted exactly the same – they were flavourless. The lobster pie was mostly pastry with a sorry little piece of prawn-like meat in the middle of it. It was as if the chef was allergic to seasoning and had never tasted salt. I ate about half of the plate out of sheer hunger and left the rest.

By that time, I didn’t hold high hopes for the dessert. It was some chocolate mousse dome concoction that tasted like one thing and one thing only – sweet, sweet, and sweet. It was like shoving mouthfuls of creamed sugar in my mouth. I dug underneath the surface of the dome and found some red jelly, which was just as sweet as the shell. I ate a bit of the jelly and left the rest of the dessert behind in fear of getting a sugar coma.

On the menu, the fourth course was a selection of cheese. No one told us that they were actually waiting for us on a platter in the hallway. Just as well one of our companions went to the washroom, noticed them, and brought some of them back. Given that I hadn’t had much to eat by then, I went and got some cheese myself. The blue cheese lacked oomph and was bland like everything else we had tasted. I wondered if the chef also made the blue cheese on-site. The brie was much better, so I tried to fill up on it.

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention – according to the menu, every course was paired with a different wine but none the wait staff seemed to know they were meant to pour us the correct glass of paired-wine first before each course was served. Instead, the wine got poured haphazardly throughout the evening without regard to any of the paired-courses. At one stage, I had to empty the white wine in my glass and poured myself a glass of red to go with the beef. We also noticed that the champagne that was meant to be paired with the dessert wasn’t the champagne they actually served. At which time, most of us had aleady finished our dessert anyway!

All in all, none of the courses was enjoyable. In fact, they were on the verge of not being edible. Our whole experience was horrific, which most certainly was not commensurate with the 250 pounds we each paid per person. We most certainly didn’t blame the staff there – they seemed to be trying their best to please their guests but they seemed to be an impromptu gang of people management just threw together regardless of their experience and hoped for the best. As one of us said, they were all very nice people but were totally useless.

As a result of me posting this review, the Marriot gave us back half of the costs. At least they acknowledged the problem.

1 January 2020

Today was our last full day in London before we had to leave.

We spent a very laid back day by sleeping in due to the late night the night before.

Sam and I popped over to Planet Organic first thing in the morning because I needed an eye serum. We met up with the boys when we were done and the four of us made our way to Seven Dials for brunch.

We settled for the Seven Dials Market and Sam and I had the most amazing parmesan and truffled chips, together with some fried white bait. The coffee at one of the cafes was amazing as well. Who would have thought food and drinks at what was really just a food court were much nicer than the meal we had at the Marriot the night before?!

When we were done, Sam went to FOPP to pick up some DVDs. We gave him about 20 minutes there and grabbed him up along the way to head to Harrods.

There were heaps of people at Harrods. To be honest, I wasn’t sure why Jake suggested going there because he and Ryan were not exactly shoppers. While we were looking through the Harry Potter merchandise, we found a golden snitch statue we saw at the Warner Bros Studio the other day. The price was about 10 pounds cheaper. I don’t usually like buying collectibles unless the material is right. We found out from the shop attendant that the statue was made with silver alloy and the snitch itself was gold-plated, which was good enough for me, so Sam bought that for me as one of my birthday prezzies.

Unsurprisingly, Jake wanted to leave not long after we got there, so we all came back to the hotel. Well, Ryan got off at Leceister Square station so he could walk the rest of the way home while Sam and I went to get some coffee first before we came back to the hotel.

We pretty much spent the rest of the afternoon lazing around, doing a bit of packing for tomorrow’s departure to Paris.

We met up with the boys again at 6:30 pm for the musical, Dear Evan Hansen. Boy was it a great show. It had the direct and pragmatic approach of all things American but the story had so much depth and meaning to it. It evoked quite a bit of feelings in me and made me think a lot, not to mention that the main actor who played Evan Hansen was impossibly talented. His voice was amazing and he made voice control seemed totally effortless. The music arrangements were simple but catchy and I just loved the harmonies. It was a must-see musical as far as I am concerned.

So that was our last full day in London. I am going to miss this place. But life goes on – here we come, Paris!

2 January 2020

Today is my birthday. We got up reasonably early because we were checking out of the hotel and leaving London.

Sam and I made it down to the coffee shop downstairs for breakfast at about 10 am and dropped into Holland and Barrett to get a few things before we checked out.

The four of us then caught an Uber and headed to St Pracras Station to catch the Eurostar. We were about 2 hours early and the café I liked upstairs was closed, so we went through customs early and waited for our train.

Like most places we have been so far, people seem to stage stampedes everywhere. When the gate for the Eurostar was announced, there was a stampede. This time, we were quick on our feet and made it onto the train with prime spots for our luggage.

The train ride was good but unfortunately, I got motion sickness, so I had to endure close to two hours of nausea. By the time we reached Paris and I was only solid ground again, I was fine.

We ordered an Uber and waited for more than half an hour before it turned up. It was partly our fault for getting to Paris during peak hour traffic. The Uber was in a complete gridlock and took another hour to get to our hotel even though it would normally only take about 25 minutes!

We found ourselves in really large serviced apartments, which was a great change from our hotel rooms in London. Once we had settled down, we found one of the restaurants we ate at four years ago and had dinner there. It was in the middle of the gay district and was quite confronting because everyone sat at their table facing the street, so when we walked past these restaurants, we felt like we were being checked out. I actually caught two people checking me out – the attention was kind of nice. Dinner was great and the boys bought Sam and mine because it was my birthday, which was lovely of them.

When we finished dinner, we walked around the Le Marais neighbourhood for a bit before we found this gourmet ice-block place for some dessert. The ice blocks were fantastic.

We are now back in the serviced apartment getting ready for bed. I can’t wait to soak up the atmosphere here in Paris. I love this city.

3 January 2020

Normally, Paris is highly accessible as a city but train workers are on strike at the moment, which threw our plans out of whack today.

We met up at about 9:30 am to go to Versailles but when we got to the train station, we learned that it was close due to the strike. We tried to call an Uber but received a text message from the driver saying that it would take 33 minutes to get to us, so we cancelled it. Not knowing what to do, we started walking in the general direction of Versailles.

On the way, we worked out that the trains from Montpanasse station to Versailles were running, so after some assistance from a train station worker to get our tickets, we finally reached Versailles by train. By far, the biggest challenge in all that was that Sam needed to go to the toilet, so we had to try and accommodate that along the way as well.

As we headed to the palace, we dropped into a pub for a bout of lunch. The food was good but when I was paying for our table, the waiter made a mistake on the EFTPOS machine and charged my card 611 Euros instead of 61.10 Euros! Thankfully, one of the waiters who appeared to be the pub owner quickly processed a refund and wished us a happy new year when he was done, so it was all good.


It was great to visit Versailles again. I tried to share some of the history I knew about the place with the boys. We were all quite tired though because we had done so much walking already to get there. Still, while it had taken us a lot longer than we expected, the visit was still very worthwhile. I just couldn’t help feeling in awe from standing in the same room as Marie Antoinette while the Swiss guards were holding back the angry mob as she tried to escape. It was like history replaying itself right in front of my eyes again.

When we finished the visit, we caught a train back to Montpanasse. We dropped into a café for coffee and noticed that the Metro was opened (the strike was momentarily suspended during the peak hours), so we quickly ducked down and got sardined into a Metro. It took us to Chatelet station, which was right in the middle of the neighbourhood in which we were staying.

We rested up in our serviced apartments before we went out for a proper three course dinner at a nearby restaurant called Chez Mademoiselle. The food was to die for and the guy who served us was so charming. We did try another restaurant first but couldn’t get in because we didn’t reserve. When we got to Chez Mademoiselle, we were still not entirely sure of our choice because they didn’t have an English menu. Luckily, every plate that came out was simple yet so very delicious. The little things they did also made the food extra special, ranging from the yummy chilled mascarpone cream that came out with dessert to the unlimited after-dinner limoncello and amaretto they served on a complimentary basis.

What a change in spirit a good dinner makes. We all came out feeling totally satisfied and content, feeling grateful for our experience.

4 January 2020

We got together with the boys at about 9:30 am and walked around the neighbourhood a little – I love the Le Marais area. In particular, I wanted to find the place we stayed the last time we were here. We found the place and continued along the other main street near us last time.

As we were walking up, we found a cool little café and had breakfast there. The café had a succulent theme and had mirrors installed on the ceiling. The waitress was so lovely and patient with our broken French.

When we were done, we continued along the same road and dropped into Centre Pompidou. I visited it before but Sam and the boys hadn’t, so it was fun to go through it with them again.

When we were done, we made our way to the Eiffel Tower. We had a 4 pm ticket to go up the tower. When we got there, there were queue after queue of security and ticket checkpoints. It was great once we got up to the tower, although it was a bit crowded up there. Our tickets allowed us to go up to the summit. I had never been there before, so it was a special experience.

We didn’t feel like going out for dinner when we finally got back to our neighbourhood. Instead, we bought a bunch of groceries and I made a bolognaise meat sauce for everyone. Jake and Ryan had that with Fettucine while Sam and I had that with mashed potatoes. Given the limited cooking utensils I had, I think I did a great job with the meal. We all ate more than we should and found ourselves not wanting any dessert at all.

After dinner, we played Uno and the boys’ Monopoly card game. By the time they left, it was pretty late.

Who would have thought a night in was so pleasant!

5 January 2020

We met up at about 10 am and walked along the Seine until we somehow found ourselves at Place de la Concorde. Then we walked up to the Champ-Elysees and went up the Arc de Triomphe. In a stroke a luck, because it was a Sunday, there was no admission fee to go up, which saved us about 18 Euros each. I loved the view up on the Arc de Triomphe more so than that on the Eiffel Tower.

When we were done, we went to a nearby pub called Washington Poste for lunch. I shared some escargots with Sam and had a raclette bowl, which went down very well with my mug of mulled wine. When we finished lunch, we went to the L’Occitane on Champ-Elysees where they also sold Pierre Hermes macarons. I bought three and devoured them straight away – they were one of the best macarons I had ever had. The boys loved theirs too.

We were going to get back to the hotel but had a different view on how to get back, so Sam and Jake caught the Metro while Ryan and I rode Lime scooters back to our serviced apartment. On the way back, we stopped by the Australian coffee shop Ryan found to get coffee.

Before I went back to the apartment, I went into a chocolatier across the road that also sold macarons. I was very proud of myself – I bought everything in complete French without either me nor the shop assistant deferring to English at all. I must have been completely intelligible, including the four macarons I selected separately, or the shop assistant was very kind to me.

In the evening, the four of us caught an Uber and went to Moulin Rouge. It was in French, so it was not easy for us to work out what was going on. However, most of the acts were action based and some of the acts were quite risque. It was like watching Cirque de Soleil. My verdict? I was glad that I saw it but I wouldn’t be dying to go back again, despite the yummy French champagne we were served.

It was a long day but a very enjoyable one.

6 January 2020

The day started at 9:30 am. The four of us went to get coffee at the Australian coffee shop, before we walked along the river to get to the Louvre. We spent hours there. If I were French and lived in Paris, I would go there every now and then, do one section, and come back later to do others over a number of days. It was just impossible to see everything without getting completely exhausted!

We did stop by the museum café for lunch at extortionary prices. The food was okay but certainly nothing special. We then spent another few hours looking at a few things before we called it a day and headed back to the hotel by Metro. Before we did that though, we did buy some more macarons – I bought half a dozen and devoured them in the next few hours. I think I need to start a diet when I get home!

Ryan and I went to get coffee while Jake and Sam went back to the serviced apartment. After 15 minutes or so, we all went to a nearby laundry together. In between waiting for our clothes to get washed and then dried, we walked around the neighbourhood some more. We then hauled everything back to the apartment, folded them, and voila, we are now good for another week or so.

We went out to dinner at a restaurant a block away from us called La Tartine. They had a happy hour (which went from 6 pm to 9 pm, so it was really a few happy hours!) and we ordered some espresso martinis – granted they were a bit sweet but boy were they tasty! Sam and I shared a dozen escargots again and we both had the confit duck. Then I let myself have a creme brulee. All the courses were amazing and the waiter was lovely. I love French food!

7 January 2020

We got together at 9:30 am again for the catacombs. Again, it was a bit of a logistical nightmare, trying to work out how to get there given the limited Metro service due to the strike.

We made it most of the way there but had to walk for about 20 minutes to get to the catacombs. When we got there, we noticed a sign saying that due to the strike, there was no guarantee we would get in but we waited in the queue anyway. Luckily, we did get in after about a 30-minute wait.

They changed a few things in the catacombs but everything was pretty much how I remembered them. Once again, it was quite morbid to walk through the catacombs with so many human skulls all through them. There were about 6 million Parisians buried down there. The boys enjoyed the visit as well as it was their first time being there.

When we were done, we went looking for a place for lunch. After a bit of walking around the neighbourhood and stopping at a chocolatier for Sam to buy his chocolate, we settled at a bistro with lots of Parisians in it and had a decent lunch there.

Jake, Sam, and I then took the Metro back to Le Marais to visit the Jewish Museum while Ryan wanted to saunter home. It took no time for the three of us to get back to our neighbourhood and find the museum. It was an interesting museum – I would have preferred it having a bit more Second World War stuff but it was still worth a visit.

When we were done, Ryan met up with us and the four of us went to visit Patrick Roger in the neighbourhood. After spending more than AUD$100 together there, we got some amazing chocolate. We went back to our respective serviced apartments and rested. Sam and I then went down to the boys’ apartment and played Nintendo Switch with them for a while. As we were doing that, I felt like some more macarons, so I went across the road and got some more.

The four of us then went to Le Colimacon for a three-course meal (we tried to go there a few nights ago but couldn’t get in without a reservation). The food was even better than that the night before. I had the cassolette de champignons, followed by the Magret de Canard, and finished up with another crème brulee. The quality of the food was amazing. I am really going to miss the food here in Paris.

8 January 2020

We met up with the boys at about 9:30 am downstairs to get coffee from the Australian coffee shop nearby for one last time before we left Paris.

We thought it would be a piece of cake to catch an Uber to Gare du Nord. First, we couldn’t get an Uber van because there wasn’t one nearby. After we decided to order two separate cars, two Uber drivers cancelled on us. By that time, it was close to 10:15 am and our train was departing at 11:15 am, at least that was what I thought. The third Uber driver took quite a long time to get to us – he told us later on that it was because it was peak hour traffic.

The roads were in a gridlock and it took us close to 11 am to get to Gare du Nord. Thankfully, I realised in the car that our train wasn’t departing until 11:55 am, so that took the pressure off. Still, it was quite stressful worrying that we could miss the train. It didn’t help when Sam read a Facebook post from one of his friends who was leaving Paris for Switzerland that their train was cancelled due to the strike, so they had to quickly book a flight instead.

Given that we bought first class train tickets, our carriage was relatively sparse and quiet, which was very much welcomed. Given that France and Germany are part of the EU, there was no custom clearance required but it was also a bit alarming that there were no security checks to board the train. Some fierce and intimidating customs officers did single out someone a few seats in front of us. I suspect it was ethnic profiling.

We didn’t realise they served lunch on the train but it was not too bad. I also broke my paleo diet and had my first bread roll in at least 3 years. I was happy to make an exception because European wheat was less reactive than Australian wheat. In fact, I might even have a croissant tomorrow.

I had a little bit of motion sickness at first when the train was going at high speed but I had Stamatil tablets with me this time, so it wasn’t too bad. Also, once we got to Brussels, the speed seemed to have decreased for the rest of the trip, so it was quite bearable.

We reached Dusseldorf at about 4 pm. Google told me that we were only a 9-minute car ride away from the hotel, so we just hopped onto a taxi and were taken to the hotel after 8 Euros later. It was so much cheaper than the Uber trip from our hotel to Gare du Nord in the morning, which cost us 50 Euros!

After settling down, Sam and I walked around the neighbourhood. We found the Christmas Market and later settled down at a Japanese restaurant for dinner. Then we headed back to the hotel and dropped into a supermarket similar to Whole Foods called Edeka to pick up some supplies for our hotel room.

When we got back to the hotel, we Skyped Andrea and Liam to organise meeting with tomorrow. We are really looking forward to seeing them!

9 January 2020

We took it easy and slept in, which was exactly what we needed.

We left the hotel at about 11 am and walked all around the city in search of something to eat. We ended up at this posh-looking café that resembled a retirement home – there were lots of old rich people eating there.

We struggled with the language a bit and our order didn’t reduce the waiter’s confusion. We ended up ordering a bowl of soup and a croissant each after we were told that they weren’t serving any eggs. The waiter wanted to know what we wanted in addition to the soup, obviously not understanding that we were having soup for lunch. In the middle of our meal, he brought out the egg dish we originally wanted to order – apparently, the chef decided he could make it for us after all. Naturally, we got charged for that as well. Be that as it may, it was a nice brunch, so there was nothing to complain about.

We did some more walking and wandered into the Alstadt area. It was a charming and bohemian area of the city, which reminded us of West End at home. We tried to find a place for some macarons and coffee but gave up, so we walked back to the hotel and went to the Edeka across the road for macarons. Then we went to this dodgy looking newsagency for coffee because we noticed that they had a proper coffee machine. As it turned out, the coffee wasn’t too bad.

We rested in the hotel until Andrea and Liam turned up. It was great to see them. I gave Liam my old Apple Watch and you could see his eyes lit up! The four of us went to a nearby barber so that Sam and I could get out haircut. Unfortunately, given translation issues (the barbers did not recognise blade numbers in this country), they cut my hair far too short but I stopped them in time, so it was only the sides that were cut. In the end, my haircut didn’t look too bad.

We then walked to this Michelin Star restaurant we found a few blocks away. He had to wait for a while and were eventually seated outside. We actually found the weather quite mild here and, in addition to the heater, it was actually great to sit outside. The meals were incredible. I ordered another duck and crème brulee. Both were done close to perfection. No wonder the restaurant has been winning Michelin Stars year after year!

It was lovely chatting with Andrea and Liam, including a bit of walking down the memory lane. Given that Liam will be turning 14 soon, it is a bit crazy to think that what we did in what seemed like yesterday has created a whole new person and life. It was also great to chat with Liam now that he is older as is able to express how he feels about things (in both English and German fluently!).

After dinner, we all walked back to the hotel in the light drizzle. It was a lovely end to a lovely and quiet day.

10 January 2020

Sam and I were meant to meet up with Andrea and Liam at 9 am this morning but they texted and deferred it to 10 am and then 10:30 am.

We took the opportunity to get down to Edeka for a quick coffee and croissant.

We got picked up by Andrea at about 10:30 am and were taken to their new home, which was still under construction. It was good to see the progress of their new build and where they will be living (hopefully) in April 2020.

After the construction site visit, we went back to Andrea and Liam’s current home where we had tea and chatted. Our conversation was quite deep and interesting. I thoroughly enjoyed the intellectual exchange. We then went to a nearby shopping centre (Liam's favourite neighbourhood mall) to grab a quick bite before we went to the Rhine Tower.

The tower reminded me of the CN Tower in Toronto. The view up there was amazing. We had coffee and sat there for hours, chatting about all sort of things, including our respective experiences with the children in our rainbow family.

In the evening, we drove from the tower to a Japanese restaurant for dinner. The food was great and despite Liam looking a bit bored by all the adult conversations, we all had a great time.

It was lovely to spend the whole day with them. Meanwhile, we are a bit worried about our flight from Munich to Dubai next week after the downing of the Ukranian Airlines flight. Hopefully, Emirates knows what they are doing.

We wanted to get some espresso martinis and the receptionist said they could make them for us. As it turned out, the martinis came with ice in them, so they obviously didn’t know anything about making cocktails!

11 January 2020

We got up at about 7 am to get ready to see Liam and Andrea one last time before we left Dusseldorf.

We met up with them at 9:30 am at Edeka but the place did not allow dogs to go in (Andrea and Liam were dog-sitting), so we walked a bit further down and went to another dog-friendly café instead.

It was great to have breakfast with Andrea and Liam. We chatted and shared some more thoughts. I find chatting with Andrea intellectually stimulating, which is hardly surprising given that she is an academic.

At about 11 am, we all walked back to our hotel so we could pick up our luggage and check out. As it turned out, the Dusseldorf Hauptbahnhof was only 500 metres away and was visible from the hotel, so we wheeled our luggage all the way to the station.

When we got there, we were a tad more than an hour early, so the four of us went to Starbucks for some matcha frappacinos. As midday arrived, we went up the platform and waited for a while before the train came.

I felt a bit sad saying goodbye to Liam and Andrea and wished we had more time together.

Our carriage on the train was almost empty, which was great. The train was also quite new and comfy. We had a croissant for lunch and it didn’t take long before arrived at Frankfurt.

Me being me, I looked at Google Map and concluded that we were very close to the hotel, except that dragging our luggage over the distance turned out to be pretty painful. Once we had checked in and wolfed down a few macarons we bought at the train station, we went for a walk, which turned out to be a long walk. We pretty much went all over town and inadvertently walked into a lot of the tourist landmarks.

When we were tired from walking, we went back to the hotel and had some pretty amazing espresso martinis, followed by a reasonably good dinner. Then we went around the neighbourhood looking for a supermarket but we kept running into Middle Eastern ones.

We went back to the hotel and the friendly receptionist told us that the ‘normal’ supermarkets were across the river. We went back out and crossed the river via one of the bridges nearby and found a half-decent supermarket, so we got some supplies and returned to the hotel.

It was a long day but tomorrow should hopefully be more relaxing as most things are apparently closed on Sunday in Germany.

12 January 2020

Today was a day of rest, so we didn’t set the alarm to wake up.

I woke up spontaneously at about 9:30 am and after all the usual wake-up rituals without any need to rush, we finally left the hotel at about 11 am.

We headed towards the Juddengasse Museum but stopped for a croissant and coffee on the way. I am going to be sad not being able to eat bread against once we get home but I am also looking forward to the improving health effects.

Juddengasse Museum was interesting. It wasn’t big at all but it was filled with interesting things about an ancient Jewish settlement right here in Frankfurt. It was sobering to see how the Jews had been hated for so many years and were consigned to living in slums. What’s sobering is that anti-semitism is on the rise again. I hope history would not repeat itself.

After the museum, we headed down to the old town area. Sam found a Japanese/German café and went a bit nuts with all the matcha products. We then had a quick quintessential German lunch – hot dogs with fries. The lunch was okay – I really don’t enjoy highly processed meat and no matter how it is packaged and covered up by sauce.

After lunch, we went to one of the modern art museums around the corner. I am glad we went but some of the pieces in there were ridiculous. I did have fun putting them on Instagram and making fun of them though.

We headed back to the hotel in the late afternoon to rest. Then we headed across the bridge to a German restaurant booked for us by the friendly (and very vocal) hotel receptionist.  

The restaurant turned out to be more like a beer hall than a restaurant but the food was very good, albeit we learned that there was no such thing as high-end German food. I ordered a goulash, which was delicious, so I ordered this apple rings dessert as well. As it turned out, it was absolutely huge – it consisted of what tasted like freshly fried cinnamon doughnuts with apples smothered in cream and ice cream. It was very decadent. When we were done, I was full to the hilt.

We walked all the way back to the hotel, which was just as well to aid digestion. At this rate, I was not planning to eat any breakfast or lunch tomorrow.

13 January 2020

We got up reasonably early this morning to visit the Stadel Museum, only to find out when we got there that the museum was close on Mondays.

A little deflated, we walked back across the river and went to the Main Tower observation platform instead. It was nice to take in a panoramic view of the city. The only misgiving was that there was a slight drizzle, which was kind of pesky.

After the observation platform, we decided to head towards the Innestadt area for a last walk-around. On the way, we found this health café and had brunch there. It was so good to finally have something healthy in my body after all the rubbish I had been eating.

To undo the healthy food, after a bit more walking, we did grab a croissant each, followed by another coffee. The cold weather has a way of making you want to eat.

We decided that we had done enough walking, so we went back to the hotel to grab our dirty laundry. We then headed to a nearby laundromat to get our laundry done. While we were waiting, we went to the Hapbahnhof to get some macarons and a drink at a bar there. It wasn’t a bad way to soak up the atmosphere of the neighbourhood and be amongst the locals.

In the evening, we went to this high-end Michelin Star restaurant for dinner. The food was incredible. The chef was Austrian and the restaurant mainly did German, Austrian, and Asian-fusion food. The service was as impeccable as the food. After the night before, I wasn’t going to order dessert but I just couldn’t help myself (not to mention that the servings were much smaller), so I ordered a chocolate souffle which I certainly didn’t regret.

When we finished dinner, we walked back across the river. At times on the bridge, I forgot that we were actually in Germany – Frankfurt had a very Brisbane feel to it.

Before we headed back to our hotel room, we went to the hotel bar for cocktails where I think I had found ‘my drink’ – after hearing the flavours I usually enjoyed, the bartender introduced me to a Flaming Sazerac, which included cognac, burnt absinthe, and orange peel. It was a great drink and appealed to my taste buds to a tee.

So that was it, our last full day in Frankfurt before we head off to Munich, our last German destination, tomorrow.

14 January 2020

We woke up at about 7 am this morning to get ready to go to the Hauptbahnhof for our train to Munich.

We decided to walk to the station again because it was quite close by, even though dragging our luggage over uneven grounds could be a bitch at times.

We were there about an hour early, so we bought some croissants and coffee for breakfast. The train arrived about 5 minutes late but it was pretty uneventful dragging our luggage up the train, finding out seats, and spending the next two hours stuffing around with our phones and listening to our audiobooks and music.

We arrived at Munich at about 1 pm and the hotel was literally diagonal from the Hauptbahnhof. Checking in was uneventful but the service at Le Meridien had been amazing. We were even given sparkling wine as we were checking in.

I was getting peckish, so we walked towards the Alstadt area for lunch. After lunch, we headed down what resembled the Queen Street Mall in Brisbane called Marienplatz, even that this mall had amazing historical buildings all along it. The buskers were also very talented and played amazing classical music.

The boys messaged us when their train pulled in at about 4 pm. We met up with them back at the hotel bar for cocktails as we caught up on our travelling stories since we parted at Paris. While we were chatting, we saw a mouse running around in the bar; at one stage, it even went up to one of the sofas! It was kind of gross. After our catch-up, we went to a traditional German restaurant and had another indulgent dinner including dessert.

I am now nursing a very full tummy and a mild hangover after all the drinks we have had over the last few hours.

16 January 2020

We got up at about 6:30 am this morning to get ready for our Dachau concentration camp tour.

Before we went to the Hauptbahnhof where we were meant to meet with the tour group, we went to a nearby café for a coffee and croissant. As it turned out, the coffee wasn’t all that good.

We got to the tour group meeting point a bit before the start time of 9:15 am. Many of the people in the tour group turned out to be Aussies. There were a few American as well.

It didn’t take long to reach Dachau. Like the Sachsenhausen concentration camp, what took place at Dachau didn’t take long to don on us. The camp was brutal and while it wasn’t where most of the holocaust was carried out, it was a trial site to test the gas chamber for instance. The details regarding the atrocities committed on the site were just horrendous.

To make things worse, it was a really sunny day, so being outside wasn’t exactly Eddie-friendly.

Once our very informative and interesting tour guide had finished the formal part of the tour, we went to the museum café for lunch, which proved to be a circuit-breaker from the gruelling historical account associated with the site. In any case, it was a really good and sobering visit. I would really like to visit Auschwitz one of these to days to fully understand the holocaust.

We got back to the Hauptbahnhof at about 2 pm. Jake wanted to go back to the hotel to rest, so the three of us went back to Marienplatz without him and walked around. I bought myself a new scarf (my old one kept curling up) and left my old one in the bargain bin in the Benetton shop. I also bought myself a natural facial cleaner as I was running out soon. Naturally, Sam dropped into a number of chocolate shops and Ryan and I bought some macarons at one stage out of sheer habit now.

We walked through many streets in the Marienplatz area – Munich is such a beautiful city and is by far my favourite German city over Berlin, Frankfurt, and Dusseldorf.

In the evening, we had cocktail in the hotel bar before we went to a restaurant we found earlier on for dinner. The food was great – much better than the slap-dash stuff we had the night before. Despite my best efforts, I ended up with an apple strudel for dessert.

Time for bed – we are getting up early for a long day’s visit to the Neuschwanstein castle.

17 January 2020

Today was our last full day with the boys in Munich.

We booked a tour to visit the Neuschwanstein Castle, so we met up at about 9 am to grab a quick coffee and croissant before we arrived at the meeting point for the tour at the Hauptbahnhof.

There were a few people who went to the same Dachau tour as we did, so it was good to see them again for this tour.

The tour took much longer though because it took a 2-hour train ride and a 10 minute bus trip to get to the site. Once we got there, we were given some time to grab lunch, so we went to a café for some lunch before we re-convened with everyone and walked up the mountain to the castle. We were told that the walk may be gruelling for some but it really wasn’t. I found myself bounding up it without much trouble. The tour guide even said to me when we got to the top that I walked very quickly!

Once we walked through the gates, we weren’t allow to photograph but Ryan set up the camera and used his Apple Watch to take some footage! The formal tour took 25 minutes, which was a slight anti-climax. Having said that, it was good to visit the castle and listen to the story of the king who was behind the construction of the castle.

The boys went to the bridge for a scenic view of the castle when we got out but Sam and I descended the mountain and had coffee at the same café at which we had lunch earlier. We found ourselves chatting with an Australian couple – there were quite a few Aussies on the tour. It was nice chatting with them.

It took quite a while to get back to Munich. By the time we were back, it was close to 7:30 pm, so after checking out the restaurant at Sofitel across the road, which Jacob rejected, we went to have dinner at the restaurant in our hotel. As it turned out, the food was great and each of us ordered 3 drinks! It was a lovely end to our trip together.

Tomorrow, the boys will be waking up early to get to the airport to fly down to Italy while we will be flying to Hong Kong. I am a bit uneasy having to fly with Emirates because they are still flying over Iran and Iraq (a Ukranian Airline plane was mistakenly shot down by Iran last week). Unfortunately, there is no plan B.

18 January 2020

After two days of planned tour, we slept in this morning while the boys got up early for the airport for their trip to Rome.

Despite not putting on an alarm, I spontaneously woke up at about 8:30 am and Sam followed suit.

We took our time doing our morning routine, followed by a bit of final packing to get ready for check-out. Before we did that, we went downstairs to look for coffee and a croissant. I am really going to miss croissants when I get home and restart my paleo diet (on the other hand, I am looking forward to feeling stronger again).

We checked out at about noon and asked the hotel to store our luggage. The two of us then made our way down to Marienplatz again and did some clothes shopping. It was impossible to shop with the boys because they didn’t like shopping. Without them, Sam bought some polo shirts while I got myself a funky red T-shirt and some socks.

When we were a bit tired, we dropped into a French café for one last European baked goods hoorah. I got myself yet another butter croissant and a slice of banana pie. They were so incredibly good.

We walked around some more after lunch but decided to head back to the hotel by about 3 pm. We dropped into the hotel bar and ordered some cocktail to kill time.

At 6:30 pm, our chauffeur (courtesy of our business class flight) came and picked us up from the hotel and took us to the airport. Sam had a momentary panic, thinking that he lost his phone, when we were getting out of the car. Thankfully, he found it on the floor of the car.

We checked in our luggage, went through immigration, and headed straight for the lounge. I ate a few things and regretted it because I realised that they would be serving dinner on the plane.

We had never flown Emirates before but because Qantas does not fly out of Munich, this was the first time we flew Emirates. Despite the unfamiliar setting, the service was amazing. I am afraid that they do a better job making passengers feel comfortable than Qantas does. I am writing this as we are flying over the Black Sea.

Well, we arrived safely in Dubai after flying along the border of Iran and Iraq. Phew. The flight was actually very smooth. The only flaw was the delay when we approached – we went into a loop formation for about 4 times before actually landing.

Dubai airport was crazy – there were already heaps of people everywhere at 7 am in the morning. We had a 3-hour layover, so we grabbed a bite and tried some of the god-awful coffee from the coffee machines. It didn’t feel that long before we had to board the plane for Hong Kong.

The trip from Dubai to Hong Kong was cut short by me watching two Harry Potter movies back to back. It was close to 9 pm when we reached Hong Kong, so we hopped on a taxi, which took us directly to our hotel. We went downstairs and found a local joint for dinner before we hurried back to the hotel, took a much needed shower, and went to bed.

It was a long day.

19 January 2020

We got up at 10 am when the alarm went off. I put the alarm on on purpose to make sure that we didn’t oversleep.

Once we were ready, we went to Harbour City and got a nice coffee to wake us up. The coffee was great but it cost the equivalent of more than AUD$8 per coffee!

After a bit of walkaround, we took the MTR and went to Mong Kok. It was just as crowded there and we were feeling a tad claustrophobic at times. We went back to the school I went to when I lived in Hong Kong as a child so Sam could see it. He seemed very interested and took many photos. The school had changed a fair bit and, to be honest, given that I didn’t have a the best experience and childhood at that school, I had cold chills running down my spine a few times as a few memories came back and haunted me.

After visiting my old school, we went to the shopping centre next door and went to the Outback Steakhouse for lunch, which was Australian themed. The food wasn’t too bad. Instead of bread for the table, they gave us dampers. I had a crab cakes salad, which wasn’t particularly Australian but Sam had a barramundi, which was a tad bit more Australian.

After lunch, we browsed the shopping centre and I got a much needed coffee. When we ran out of shops to visit, we went back onto the streets and walked all the way from Mong Kok to our hotel to soak up the city’s atmosphere, which was characterised by people, people, and people. It was crowded literally everywhere. We did walk into a few shops at times and I bought myself a really nice pair of pants.

After resting in the hotel for a couple of hours, we went back out at about 8:30 pm to visit the gay venues in Hong Kong. We first went to Zoo Bar, which was kind of small despite the yummy cocktails they made. The patrons were also older as well and the venue reminded me of Sporties in Brisbane. Then we walked to Petticoat Lane (Wink was closed), which was a bit livelier, so we had another cocktail there. 

Given that we were sticking close together and obviously spoke English, no one came up to chat with us. We then went back to Tsim Sha Chu and went to New Wally Matt Lounge. It was meant to be the oldest gay venue in Hong Kong but it was nothing more than a bar where the bartender didn’t even know how to make a White Russian.

All in all, the gay venues in Hong Kong kind of suck.

20 January 2020

We got up reasonably early and went to get coffee as a matter of priority. After a quick (and dreadful) lunch at Shake Shack, we took the Star Ferry and went across the harbour to Central. We walked around for a while, bought macarons from Paul Lafayet at the IFC Centre, and walked all the way to the Legislative Council building because I wanted to see where the protest took place last year to prevent the legislators from passing the proposed extradition law.

We did a lot of walking.

When we got back to the Kowloon side, we went to Bossini and bought myself another pair of pants. Then we rested for a while before meeting up with my sister, Elsa, and my parents for dinner.

As usual, conversations were strained but I survived the ordeal. The beautiful French food helped.

After dinner, we said goodbye to my parents while Elsa walked us back to our hotel. We chatted a bit. It was lovely to catch up with her.

21 January 2020

We got up reasonably early again this morning. We went to the usual place to get out AUD$8 cup of coffee. Then we went to YMCA for a ‘normal’ all-day breakfast. It was strange to go back there because I used to go to the swimming pool there to swim when I was little.

When we were done, we made our way to Hong Kong Disneyland. It was too sunny when we first got there and being charged AUD$20 for two cups of Starbucks coffee at the café didn’t put me in a good mood.

There were a few things that were interesting to me – the Antman shooting ride (which we did 3 times) and the Mystic Manor were fun enough. The rest of the place didn’t really do much for me. I really can’t see why the boys love Disney so much.

We left at about 5:30 pm and found a Macauese restaurant for dinner. It was a strange place but the food was quite exotically decent. We then went back to the hotel for cocktails, only to realise that I really wanted some macarons, so we did a late night dash to Paul Lafayet at Tsim Sha Tsui for a macaron run.

We are now back at the hotel winding down for the night.

22 January 2020

We set the alarm to wake up at 9:30 am this morning because we were meeting up with Elsa and Elaine for lunch.

It was a crazy rush to the restaurant because I needed coffee, so that shaved some time off our travelling time. On top of that, we had to weave in and out of various backstreets, so we got there about 5 minutes late. The place where we planned to have lunch was packed, so we walked up the hill around the corner to a funky Italian restaurant.

It was kind of surreal chatting with Elaine. Before today, we chatted about 4 years ago but only briefly. Before that, we chatted some 27 years ago, so it was kind of strange chatting with her. In particular, it was interesting to hear her insights about our parents and the coping mechanisms she had developed to cope with them. It was kind of nice for the three of us to band together and chat freely as adults.

After lunch, Elaine had to hurry back to work, so Elsa showed us around her neighbourhood and bought us good coffee before we went back to her place. To be honest, I felt sorry for the small space she and her husband lived in but I guess it was all very normal for her because real estate was ridiculously expensive in this part of the world. We had some further D&Ms and it was precious spending that time with her.

After visiting her place, she took us to this artsy place by tram which used to be police residence that was turned into an upcoming designer hub. They sold all sorts of Hong Kong-designed knick-knacks in these really nice shops all through the complex. It was fun to visit there.

At about 6 pm, we walked back to the MTR so Elsa could go to her in-laws for dinner while Sam and I went back to the hotel. After freshening up, we went to YMCA for dinner (because we could get ‘normal’ food there). We then went to the Backyard Bar for drinks, only to find out that they weren’t selling any cocktails. We then walked to the Boo Bar, which served great pina coladas. After that, we went around the corner to visit Zer0ne, which was dreadful. It was full of old queens who were allowed to chain-smoke indoors.

We are now back in the hotel and downing water like there is no tomorrow because I don’t want a hangover tomorrow.

23 January 2020

We got up really really late because I didn’t bother to put the alarm on. I was woken up by Sam who said that it was 11:15 am!

Not wanting to completely waste the day, we quickly went through our morning routine and went to grab coffee as a matter of priority. It was lunch time anyway, so we settled for lunch at Jamie's (one of Jamie Oliver's restaurants that hadn't been closed). The food was incredibly filling. I had some meatballs, followed by a bun-less burger.

One of our acquaintances apparently had an art exhibition at Yau Ma Tei, so we went there by MTR, only to find out that the ‘exhibition’ was really just a display cabinet on the side of a dodgy street. We spent ages trying to find the ‘exhibition room’ and found ourselves inside a grotty residential building. It was all very surreal. When we worked out that there was no art exhibition to see, we walked up Nathan Road, ducked into a few shops, and decided to call it quits.

I then set myself a mission to shop for a few things I needed – a pair of undies (I was literally running out of clean ones), some tops (also running out given that the last time we did laundry was when we were in Frankfurt), and some macarons (not entirely life and death – but it felt like it). We achieved our mission and went back to the hotel for a rest before we headed out for dinner with my parents, my sisters, and my brother-in-law.
 
It was a very awkward dinner, especially given that we didn’t want our parents to know that we actually met up the other day for lunch without them. We were very careful with what we said to each other so that we didn’t give away our secret rendezvous. We kept conversations to a very superficial level.

After we finished the rather strained dinner, we said goodbye to everyone – at least we pretended to because I had plans with my sisters to have drinks with them afterwards without our parents. Unexpectedly, our parents wanted to walk Sam and I back to the hotel, so we had to fake-hug my sisters and whisper into their ears ‘see you soon’ while we were doing so.

As usual, my mum was very sad saying goodbye to me. Despite how difficult our relationship had been over the years, it was hard to not feel something. She said ‘I love you very much forever’ while she was hugging me, which was kind of special. Dad tried to talk to me while we were walking to the hotel too but we never really discussed our differences through recent emails about the Hong Kong protests, etc. We kept things at a superficial level because we knew there was no point straining our relationship further.


After the farewell, we quickly dropped off a few things in our hotel room and headed to the Sky Lounge at Sheraton where my sisters were waiting for us. We had an incredible time reminiscing, sharing experiences, and bonding. I had not known my sisters because they were literally kids when I left (so was I, for that matter), so it was kind of strange finding out who they were as people. I can honestly say that I like my sisters as individuals. If only we live in the same city, I would certainly like to have more to do with them, but we don’t – I guess that’s just divine irony.

Time flew and by the time we decided to go, it was after midnight, so we walked my sisters back to the MTR station and said goodbye there. It was weird to say goodbye to them – something deep inside me felt very sad.

24 January 2020

We got up this morning at 9:30 am when the alarm went off. We weren’t going to just ‘free ball’ it, given that Sam still had to pack. His system of packing was infuriating and the fact that he bought so much stuff and stole all the hotel stuff for his mum didn’t help.

Once we were almost packed, we went to Harbour City for coffee and decided to have lunch there at the City Super Deli. I had this scallop salad, which was okay, while Sam had a bento box. I couldn’t leave Hong Kong without trying the crème brulee from Paul Lafayte, so we went through this elaborate ordering and paying process to get a tub back to the hotel for my eating pleasure. It certainly didn’t disappoint.

After checking out, we went out to the Ladies Market at Mong Kok. It was quite grimy and boring. Sam bought some souvenirs but bargaining with the street vendors was no fun. We then tried to find a toilet for Sam, which was another drama in itself. Eventually, we found toilets for him at KFC.

There was not much more to see, so we went back to the hotel earlier than planned, got our luggage, and made our way to the airport. We figured we could always just park ourselves at the Qantas lounge. It was a bit hair-raising because after we got into the car, we realised that we mightn’t have enough remaining cash to pay for the ride. As it turned out, we had about AUD$8 over the actual fare. Phew.

Checking-in was supposed to be easy but given the way Sam had been buying things and packing, one of his luggage went over the limit, so he had to get flustered and remove a few things from one of his check-in luggage (he already had an additional luggage from when we started the trip). After all the commotion, we went through security and immigration, parked ourselves at the Qantas lounge, and sipped espresso martinis.

It felt like ages but we finally boarded our A330 which I thought was going to be an A380. I tried to sleep but only manage to get into light snooze for about 4 or so hours. It was kind of frustrating not being able to sleep properly, so I got up and tried to finish watching Part 1 of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

When we finally landed in Sydney, we had to go through domestic transfers, which required us to pick up our luggage and go through check-in and security again. The stupid check-in person said my luggage was a bit more than 32Kg, so I had to quickly remove one of my packing cubes and carry that with me. We tried to explain to her that we were already weighed in Hong Kong and they were happy with the weight of our luggage but this girl just wouldn’t have a bar of it.

We had to wait a little bit more than 2 hours before it was time to board again. It was kind of frustrating being so close to home yet being so far away. The final flight home was quite hilarious – the flight attendant literally just served up our food when the captain came on the PA to say that we were descending, so he had to quickly collect everything again.

It was good to be home but our air conditioning system seemed to be not working. It’s going to be a hot few days before I get back to work. 

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